Monday, May 30, 2011

All Creatures Great and Small

A list of Scottish creatures I have encountered thus far:

  • Small fluffy rabbits (rabbit coloured)
  • Small fluffy rabbit (jet black)
  • Jackrabbits
  • One huge ginormous jackrabbit (80cm long maybe)
  • Red Deer (stag and doe)
  • Peahen and Peacock
  • Adder (snake)
  • Cows on road
  • Sheep on road
  • Goats on road
  • Wild goats with giant 3' horns
  • Lambs/kids/calves dozing on road
  • Stoat-type thing (not sure what exactly)
  • Giant Black Slugs
  • Giant Caterpillars
  • Jellyfish

Saturday, May 28, 2011

All Things Scottish, Day 6

With another dubious forecast at hand, Saturday was a bit of an open card as to what I would do, since I am staying for a third night at Kilmichael Glassary so don't really need to travel anywhere.

But while the earlier parts of the trip focus on the more "recent" history of Scotland (ha!) the local sites here in Argyll delve even further back. Today's journeys led me to prehistoric rock carvings, bronze age burial sites, medieval crosses, and 10th century slab carvings. Quite a range -- oh and a castle or two thrown in for good measure because, well, they're everywhere, and they were en route.

Today was a Saturday. And a Long Weekend in Scotland. So for the first time thus far, I experienced something novel -- traffic, and crowds, relatively speaking. Winding through the local tourist center of Oban, the traffic was essentially gridlock: I'd hate to think what it's like during *peak* tourist seasons!

More traffic... During the week, on the one-lane roads, I would often drive down 10-20 KM without encountering any oncoming traffic. Today, the pullouts were frequently used. The one-lane roads typically wind through scenic areas or around lochs, and here's where became evident the Scottish "free roaming" right that, while commonly accepted, was recently codified as law of the land.

Basically, anyone can walk, roam, camp, etc anywhere they want, including purported "private" land. So on this long weekend, basically any "flat-ish" area alongside lochs or scenic areas, has tents set up and cars pulled along the shoulder. As long as you're not "interfering" with the homeowner (and not directly intruding) you're free to do this. So wherever there's no real house nearby, this weekend there are a lot of campers.

Most interesting, people set up little campsite villages at key spots, for example across the river from a scenic castle I visited. On, and in many cases "flat" is merely a suggestion -- some tents were pitched on 10-15 degree slopes, sometimes mere feet from the water level. The loch levels are very high right now (is it wet EVERYWHERE in the world this spring?) but I suppose the locals know the upper limits on water/wave reach.

So, tomorrow will be a more active day... Off on the ferry to the Isle of Mull for the day, wandering over on the passenger ferry to Iona for the night. Considering a boat trip to Staffa Isle as well if the weather is good -- but that hasn't been my luck on this trip so far.

Friday, May 27, 2011

All Things Scottish, Day 5

In deference to my friends Pradeep and Kelly, today was the day I would tour the Isle of AAAAAArrann... The weather forecast was for "light rain in the afternoon", so it looked promising.

The Isle of Arran sits between the Kintyre Peninsula and the Scottish mainland. Luckily it has ferries from both sides, so there was easy access -- or would be, if I had been able to stay at the originally booked hotel. Instead, I had to drive back south 35 KM to catch the ferry at Claonaig. You'd think something like a ferry terminal would be part of a modern travel infrastructure - -but no, Clanaig Ferry is at the end of a 14km rutted, one-lane road across from the main highway, the terminal itself sitting forelornely in the middle of nowhere.

Anyway, it got me to Arran in due time, not without cost though -- a round trip for a car and driver is 50GBP (about $80 dollars) -- but this is a vacation so I didn't expect to get off easy on this type of costs.

The ferry (and waiting queue at the other end) had a quite a number of cyclists -- who of course pay far less. Apparently Arran is a very hot "cycling" destination, to circumvent the island in a few days, catching the sites. The Isle itself is termed "Scotland in Miniature" with the south half being rolling hills, and the north half being high mountains, and everything Scottish dotted all around the island.

My goal for the day was the north half, to hike to the top of Goat Fell, the highest peak on the island at around 850M (2800 feet.) It's a worn monolith of exposed and shattered granite, surrounded by many other mountains and ridges of similar composition. When the skies are clear, the views are spectacular. Unfortunately, the peak was socked in cloud, so my view was restricted, and I didn't not get to observe the Young Maiden's Breasts. Aw shucks. Yes, those are mountains, and the name in Gaelic is probably much more poetic (or, just as likely, much more raunchy) but my view was restricted to about 300' of visibility.

Still the goal of hill walking is not just the views, the the walk itself, and Goat Fell was certainly very interesting. As you can see on the wiki page (and perhaps in some of the pictures I will post) the top third of the climb is strictly bouldering through shattered and worn granite extrusions. Very fun, challenging but easy to conquer using my normal slow and steady approach.

Climbing up, only the very top was covered in cloud, so it got very damp then. But then on the descent, it was interesting, as I'd gradually leave the mist, only to have it catch up with me a few minutes later as the cloud layer descended. In the end, but the time I got to the bottom, the entire island was socked in with a light but imposing rain.

Of interesting note, the grounds of Brodick Castle include a famous garden with many samples of trees. The storm early in the week had toppled over a prime Beech tree with about a 5' trunk, so this storm was probably a 50-year storm if not more. Yikes.

Overall the weather thus far has been quite dreary. So what better way to spend the rest of the day than taking a distillery tour! Luckily, Arran includes a Whisky distillery and I popped into that for a quick tour, which was quite enjoyable -- and not just for the sampling. There is also a well regarded Arran Brewery on the island, but given the last ferry sailing back to the mainland at 18h25, I didn't have the time to stop in.

So the day ended returning to my home for the second of three days, The Horseshoe Inn in the small small town of Kilmichael Glassary, north of Lochgilphead. It turns out this weekend is a holiday in the UK, so I had to cast the net far afield to find an available room. It is a pleasant enough place, but certainly don't stay it this type of guest house if you expect and demand Hilton-style treatmeant.

So I finish off this recap of five days of vacation, not knowing what my next activites are. On the 29th I'm set to be on the outlying Isle of Iona, which means I must travel north and west towards Mull.

All Things Scottish, Day 4

The original plan for today was to take the ferry across the Firth of Clyde and spend the day on the Isle of Arran. But since that plan involved some hiking, and the weather wasn't looking good, I decided to skip that and take the long drive to the Kintyre Peninsula (on the other side of Arran) up and arround the Firth.

As is my do, I tended to make driving days into random excursions, choosing roads "roughly" in the right direction, but favouring those flagged as "scenic" or indicating appealing areas through which to merrily motor -- such as remote 1-lane roads along barren coastlines and mountain passes.

So this lead to two realizations:

First, the scale of Scotland, compared to say, Ontario or anywhere on a North American map, is greatly reduced (or, is that enlarged... hmmm.) So looking at a map, you'd expect based on North American habit distances of 50+ km, when in fact it's more like 15. So when driving on main roads, driving from Kilmarnock to, say Cambeltown, it isn't really that far: a couple of hunded KM on roads that you can drive at 80-100kph.

Second, some of the small "interesting" roads are... slow... but interesting! So what was basically a 250km drive was, given my choice of side diversions and points of interest, a full day drive. But I enjoyed it -- Which is of course why I only tenuously extend the offer to others to join me on these types of vacation -- since I'm not sure everyone, particular vehicular passengers, would necessarily get the same fulfillment out of a full day of such wandering.

Driving around all these back road (through places like Otter's Ferry, and the interestingly-named Grogport) really showed the extent of the storm that had swept through the entire country on Monday and Tuesday. Everywhere, Forrestry Service crews were out removing downed branches and performing other cleanup duty. In particular, some of the sites I was trying to visit (Celtic carvings, crosses, etc. -- my routes are not COMPLETELY aimless) were outright inaccessible. I'm talking 1-lane roads blocked by mature trees with 2-3' trunks toppled over by the wind.

So in the end the day ended up being a lot of driving, with two interesting site visits. First was Skipness Castle and its associated chapel and graveyard, which I much enjoyed. Second was the drive down to the Mull of Kintyre, through high windswept areas. Unfortunately, I doubt the pictures will do it justice -- but the lighting off the coast was very interesting, with dark clouds pierced by spotlights of sunshine doing a lightshow over the Irish Sea (I could see Ireland in the distance, too.)

The day ended with even more delays, as my country inn reservation in West Loch Tarbert was mixed up (they had it down for the following night.) Luckily, the inn I had reserved for Friday and Saturday confirmed that a room was available -- but it was another 35KM north. Oi. So I finally got in at 10PM -- still daylight by the way -- and retired for a night, in preparation of tackling Arran again on Day 5.

All Things Scottish, Day 3

While Day 2 was All About Abbeys, on Wednesday I decided to check out three different types of castle. And in my case, interest in castles and such is limited to those foreboding, ruined hulk battlement types, not fancy Victorian and Edwardian Fat Cat summer houses gone off the berserk end of ostentatiousness.

Again, look for the pictures, but read up as you want on the castles I visited:

  1. Hermitage Castle (during Opening Hours this time) -- a purely defensive and strategic martial property on the border with England
  2. Castle Caerlaverock, a defensive stronghold that was repurposed as luxurious living accomodations
  3. Threave Castle, a river island stronghold controlling part of the southern coast
The day finished with a scenic drive back up through southern Scotland to the town of Kilmarnock about 30km southwest of Glasgow. The countryside represented what I had always pictured when reading the James Herriot. Wikipedia tells me Wight is Scottish (though the setting for Herriot is English) so I'm sure the local countryside reflected in his writings.

The stay itself was at the corporate mediocrity that is the the Travelodge chain of motels. Cheap, but... ugh.

All Things Scottish, Day 2

Fresh from a night's sleep and full Scottish Breakfust courtesy of The Meadhon House B&B in Jedbugh, I decided to catch some of the scenic southern coastline while there was the appearance of good weather (the forecasts were not optimistic.) So I headed over the St. Abb's and St. Abb's Head and Lighthouse for some sea cliffs, moor walking, and similar unwinding to get settled in.

Abb's Head is a very nice walking area and for the most part it was sunny and blue skies -- but overall it could be sunny one moment, then raining hard for a minute or two, then cycling back to beautiful. All the time, the wind was tremendous -- not gusts, but consistent. Standing on a ridge, you had to brace yourself.

The wind managed to blow the sunglasses off the top of my head at one such point. I didn't realize it until about 1km later in the walk. Proud of myself -- I was able to backtrack to two specific points that were very windy, between the Last Known Position of Sunglasses Possession. Because these were high points and barren areas, I was able to find and recover them blown about 20' off the path. Yay me.

After this excursion of getting to be one with nature, I decided to spend the rest of the day visiting the famous Border Abbeys in this area of Scotland. Once the pictures are posted you'll see some of them, but you can look them up as well. I visited, in order:

  • Kelso Abbey
  • Dryburgh Abbey (favourite)
  • Melrose Abbey
  • Jedburgh Abbey
From a purely architectural point of view, you can see all of them in a day. They're the famous ones -- but there are certainly lots of chapels and abbeys in ruins dotting the entire Scottish landscape. Early in the day, I realized that the paying 3-5 GBP for every Interesting Place would quickly add up during my 16 days (This realization eluded me when I paid to visit Rosslyn Chapel) so I bought the annual pass to Historic Scotland.

The end of the day saw me return to Jedburgh to spend another night at the same B&B.

All Things Scottish, Day 1

Finally have some time to sit down and write some thoughts on the Scottish vacation thus far. Sitting here in Kilmicheal Glassary, Scotland, without any cellphone service but WITH high speed internet, and catching up on the last 5 days.

Pictures will likely not be posted until after I get back -- It's hard to revert to this small laptop screen for editing, compared to the 27" at home -- plus I don't necessarily think many of the places I'm be visiting will appreciate huge photo uploads, high-speed be damned.

The journey started up well with last minute packing the day of departure (I always leave the packing and planning to as late as possible..) travelling via Air Canada and Continental with a 2 hour connection in Newark direct ongoing to Edinburgh. Last Sunday weather in the eastern states was dicey, so the flight from Toronto was delayed almost 90 minutes, meaning I was running inter-terminal to catch my flight.

Of course they were holding the Edinburgh flight for other delayed incoming connections as well, so all worry was for naught -- and in the end even my bags made it without problem.

First sign that all things in Scotland might not be ideal was the fact that the captain had the attendants prep the cabin for landing 40 minutes out and then strap themselves in. It was a bumpy ride, and luckily we landed right into the wind as otherwise the gusts to 60 kph would have had us divert... elsewhere.

On landing, the weather was horrible -- at EDI the walk to the rental car center is quite lengthy, and partially outside, and partially "under covered walkway" which isn't much help when it's raining sideways.

Happily, once at the rental center, the car that will be my home for the next 16 days was nice -- an Audi A3 Sport with a small 1.6 TDI (Turbo Diesel Injection) engine and a manual transmission. It has all the nifty "eco" features like auto engine start/stop -- which, interestingly enough, also instantly restarts the engine if you stall it in gear (which, *cough*, doesn't EVER happen.)

Actually in this case the whole car is part of the Hertz "Green" selection and the vehicle seems designed for high fuel economy. In fact, I've been averaging under 5L/100 so far. Why this type of vehicle is not offered in North America is beyond me -- Audi only last year offered the A3 TDI, and at that gives you only the larger 2.0L TSI engine, and only the automatic transmission. Bah.

Anyway it was the car I wanted, and I have a room in the South of Scotland booked for the evening, so the first place on my agenda was a visit to the famous Rosslyn Chapel. Unlike "the movie" (The Da Vinci Code) which places it in the vast highland plateau, it's actually in what's essentially a suburb of Edingburgh. Very interesting place, and with the added bonus that you only see the INSIDE -- the outside of the building is completely undergoing restoration and is wrapped in scaffolding -- after the roof repair took 14 years!

For reference, the release of The Da Vinci Code book and movie quintupled the number of visitors to Rosslyn. If you like interesting carvings and decoration, Rosslyn is worth a visit. Why the added bonus? Because on Monday, the weather in much of Scotland was truly horrendous. 100kph gusts, heavy rain and, in some places, hail. So being inside a chapel is good.

In the fiercest part of this, I pulled into a nameless town Car Park for a quick nap (I did take the redeye flight) which ended up being 3 hours. Oops -- but probably best not to be driving on the Wrong Side of the road when lacking sleep!

Finished off the first day with an attempted visit to Hermitage Castle, down near the English border. OK, first big less about Scotland -- things close at 5PM! Even things like rural castles on windswept moors! So back up to Jedburgh for the night.

Friday, May 20, 2011

Prepping for the trip to Scotland...

Just a quick entry to indicate that I am in full prep for Sunday's 16-day trip to Scotland, looking forward to it! Times are busy getting the laptop and photo software up to date (I normally do all that work on the desktop) , new camera toys, and similar.

Stay tuned for more Scottish mayhem!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2wWz_7qdrPs